The Science of Big Waves

Pre-viewing:
1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started? 
        Ocean waves come from the 'wave factory' in the Pacific Ocean. When the high and low pressure systems meet, pressure is released from the air and pushed right into the water.
2.  What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing? 
Where they break, when they break how they break. How best to exit the wave if you need to.

Questions for the Video

1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions. 
  The steep reef, headland, pressure systems, wind and fetch all come into play to form the Maverick waves.
2. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured? 
They start thousands of miles away in a place called the 'wave factory' in the Pacific, the low pressure system meets the high pressure system and the energy is transferred from the air to the water. Windspeed (60 km/h), fetch (2000 miles) and duration (4days) .
They are measured in three waves; height, period and wave length (peak to peak or trough to trough). The longer wave length, the longer the period between waves.
3. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed?
Some of the biggest in the world. the "mount everest of surfing". The sharp ocean floor converts the potential energy into kinetic energy. The wave refraction causes the wave to bend and rise and it feeds the energy to form the perfect wave. 
4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave  
The enrgy rotates the water, and that energy is used to propel the wave.
5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.” 
"The trick is to get in there and steal some fire before the full wrath of the wave is unleashed".
Sufers need to respect the full power of these waves as it could quickly turn into a fight for survival.

Big waves - The Cribbar

The Cribbar (English: Ploughed Reef), also known as the Widow Maker, is a reef off the Towan Headland in Newquay, Cornwall, United Kingdom.

The Cribbar is best known for creating annual big waves, popular with experienced big wave surfers from across the world. Wave faces can be in excess of 30-40ft. The Zorba is a reef 2 miles further off the coast and creates waves of 50ft or more.

The Cribbar's location in Cornwall, England

Tweed River Entrance Sand Bypassing Project Questions

1.  Offshore sand bars were beginning to form and they were a hazard to the ships that were offloading or onloading their cargo at Tweed River. The easiest solution was to build a breakwater.
2. The natural transportation of sand up the coast towards the Gold Coast was cut off as the sand stopped moving and built up at the Breakwaters.
3. Longshore drift moved sand up the coast North towards the Gold Coast, meaning sand build up across the mouth of the river. This then beacme a hazard for ships trying to travel up the river as they could become stuck or damaged by the sand bars.
4. It was a short-term solution only as the process was expensive and innefficient.
5. Pipelines underground pump the sand from where it accumulates to the beaches that are lacking sand on the Gold Coast
6. This project has been regarded as one of the most successful coastal management strategies implemented in Australia because it is so efficient and subtle. I think the process is really clever and there is no better solution to such a situation. The dredging of the sand was both expensive and environmentally unfriendly whereas the pipeline is very efficient and inexpensive (in comparison to the dredging).
7. 

8. The beach has become more square and the is more sand has built up around the recently built Breakwater.
9. 500m

Summarisung the TRESB Project

1. The problem that led to the TRESBP was that longshore drift moved sand (that was moving North) across the mouth of the Tweed River, this then put boats and ships moving into the river at risk as the offshore sand bar could damage them.

2. There was one unsuccessful solution - they updated it and now the solution is considered one of the greatest  management strategies introduced. The first solution was the dredging and transport of the built-up sand north towards the Gold Coast, this was expensive and environmentally unfriendly so there was a need to update and improve the strategy. The new strategy was then to build underground pipelines that pumped the built-up sand north to the beaches that have been deprived of sand.
3. The result of the project was the beaches were replenished with sand - the TRESB was a success

7.5 Coastal Management on the Gold Coast

Refer to the topographic map and aerial photograph on pages 164 and 165 to answer the following questions.

7. Express the scale of the map as a statement: One centimetre on the map represents 25kilometres on the ground.

8. The contour interval on the map is 10 metres.

9. a) 175 m

    b) 300m

    c) 200m

    d) 275m

    e) 120m

    f) roughly 15 minutes

10. The lighthouse at Point Danger at 32m

11.  25:30... not too sure about that one...

12. 30m

13. a) a bridge

      b) roads/built up area

      c) Point Danger Lighthouse

      d) Border Park Raceway

      e) Caravan Park

      f) Jetties

14. a) Boyd Islands (mangroves)

      b) Terranora Inlet

      c) Kirra Beach

      d) Mount Murraba

      e) Inter Tidal Flat

      f) Tweed River Mouth

15. GR 521842

16. Very low, only building is the sand dredging station.

17. AR5282 because much of 5281 is taken up by water and sports fields wheres, despite there also being much open, natural space in 5282, there is less than that of 5281

18.a) N

     b) ENE

     c) SSE

     d) NE

7.8 Dune Revegation Questions

1. Stuarts point in coastal mid-north NSW
2. 1893 (the Stuarts Point spit separates the river from the sea) May 1965 (seedlings were introduced to the area to restabilise the area) August 1965 (grazing cattle ate the seedlings and prevented restablilisation) 1970 (the government introduces one of the country's largest revegation project) Now (the dunes have been successfully restabilised)
3. The community put up fences and signs to stop people, and cattle, from destroying ot delaying the revegation process
4. Tourism and Fishing Industries make this area a valuable aspect to the local community
5. The gradual introduction of stronger and more stabilising plants in the essential parts make the revegation process so successful.
6. The roots move down into the dune, holding the sand in place meaning the wind cannot move the sand dune anymore
7. The cattle grazing stopped the initial seedling plantations as the cows then ate the seedlings before they were big enough to stabilise.
8. Fences put up would have stopped cattle getting at the seedlings but the lack of vegetation could mean the movement of the dunes due to wind and water etc.
9. The local community, Australian and NSW governments and tourists.
10.  Assess, Evaluate, Tractors were used to create the foredune, essential for the regeneration, planting trees was the next stage.